Totem, Alain Delorme

I stumbled across these images on Black Eiffel, a design blog. They're from Shanghai and while they appear to be photographs, it's hard to believe that they haven't been manipulated somehow. The coloring also contributes to a surreal feeling. It reminds me of photos of North Korea, saturated with bright, garish colors yet somehow washed out at the same time. His site doesn't strictly state that they haven't been altered, but isn't very straightforward about it either. In any case, they stayed with me and I snitched some from his website.

The expressions of surprise on the people around these load-bikers suggest that these are real scenes though.





(For similar color schemes but rather more creepy looking subjects take a look at his "Little Dolls").

Naoshima, Shodoshima, Teshima, Ojima...

I found out about this island called Naoshima out on the inland sea of Japan accidentally. I think I had been spending a lot of time on design websites over my internship and stumbled upon some gushing reviews. There wasn't too much information in English at the time, but enough for me to get around. It is a bit of the beaten path art island belonging to Shikoku but is actually closer to Honshu. There are sculptures scattered around the island, along with two, now three, museums. I went and loved it, but wasn't planning on going again. That was in 2008. Through a series of mix-ups and mis-communications I went again last year in the winter 2009. There were a few new additions in terms of experiences, a lot of new restaurants and minshukus. The experience was quite different as I went with some friends and took a lot less pictures but still got as miserably lost as I did the first time. I was taken off map duty before the end of the first day. Again, I didn't think of going again. But then the Setouchi International Arts Festival posters started circulating and I started thinking, maybe...and I didn't end up going. But I recently spotted a picture on Snow mag, which led to even more on Design Boom, and finished off today by this piece on Spoon Tamago on the newly completed Teshima Art Museum; I have to go back. The festival ends in a little over a week but I imagine the artwork will still be around. My goal is to stay at the Benesse House hotel next time. Fingers crossed.

A lunch on Naoshima, taken by my friend. (This was actually a second choice, we were looking for this other shop run by local university students but failed completely. It was a nice runner up though: one of the many chic cafes now on the island. The place transformed so much in one year! But there was still only the one place that served breakfast. I regret not having any good photos of that place. There was a tv in the corner, worn red carpet on the floor, mismatched furniture (not, in a cool hipster way, more like wobbly stools paired with end tables) well-loved stuffed animals in every nook and cranny. It felt oddly like dining in somebody, a grandmother's, living room. Breakfast was coffee, toast, a halved kiwi, and a hard boiled egg. Like the establishment itself, the meal felt thrown together from whatever odds and ends that happened to be around. )
And here are some photos I skimmed off of the Setouchi Art Festival site:

This is Shima Kitchen on Teshima, by Ryo Abe. I love the open, airy atmosphere.

My favorite perhaps, is this: "Tom Na H-iu" (also on Teshima) by Mariko Mori

Here is the explanation, copied directly from the Setouchi website:

"In ancient Celtic lore, Tom Na H-iu was the place where souls waited to pass on to their next life. Inspired by this myth, Mori has created a contemporary monument of glass. Networked to the Super-Kamioka Neutrino Detection Experiment, it responds when the observatory captures a neutrino, such as those emitted by a dying star. When it a neutrino is detected, the work emits a beautiful light."

Autumn

Just some images for now. I stumbled upon this over at Nowness. A series of images by Natsko Seki, a Japanese artist now based in London. It was done for a London Japanese deli (sounds odd to my New York ears) called Tombo. There's something whimsical and for me at least, so Japanese about these seasonal pastimes. Although I'm not entirely sure about the activities depicted in Autumn (unsure) and Winter (kite-flying I think), Hanami in the Spring and Hanabi in the summer are perfect, and so universal in Japan. This aspect rather surprised and amazed me about Japan, the appreciation for the changing seasons and how universal it is. I wouldn't admit it to some of my Japanese friends though as it seemed to be a point of pride with them that I didn't want to yield to. Not aloud anyway.

Which one is your favorite? I am wavering between Spring and Summer.




Images by Seki Natsko, from Nowness

Something Fun

It's definitely fall now in New York. It was still summer when I returned. Everything fell back in place so quickly that I didn't even realize until I uploaded photos.

There were a few surprises when I got back. Soho feels suffocatingly crowded now, all the time, I remember there being a reprieve on weekday afternoons. Now the streets are always packed. The meatpacking district has become almost unrecognizably chic. I remember going to bumble and bumble during my high school days to get those free hair cuts...it was one of the very few stores there. Western Beef was the other highlight. Now, name brand stores are everywhere and Chelsea Market is more crowded than I remember it ever being. It's become a tourist destination now; I don't think it was even a blip on the tourist radar four years ago. I'm glad for the sake of the vendors but it dampens my experience a bit. I think the addition of the high-line has helped make the area chic and happening-the meatpacking district! Chic! But, with that said, I still like the high-line a lot. What a great idea. I just wish - rather selfishly I'll admit - it didn't attract quite so many people sometimes.
Photos are actually from two different trips, had gorgeous weather on both days.

もう日本にいないけど/"Understanding Rap"

I found this post on Cool Hunting a while ago. A site with frequent postings about design, architecture, etc. It was about this book that decodes rap lyrics by translating the words into more standard American English. I had thought that I understand rap lyrics generally but it turns out I don't...at all. Probably never noticed because I don't listen carefully. and quite honestly, all that often

Anyway, the following "translation" had me laughing.


Both images from Cool Hunting

Breathe

In the process of seeing people and packing as I belatedly informed all of my acquaintances that I am leaving in a week and it's been a rush to do everything. I feel especially bad about a few of my kids lessons as I wanted to get them some small presents. Not happening I think. In my mind, I used to bequite good at this kinds of planning things. Now everything in my apartment is a mess and I try not to let anyone in.

Anyway, spotted on Seen and Said

excerpt from The Tao of Pooh, Benjamin Hoff (apparently, I haven't read it before but looks like now would be a good time for it).

"What's this you're writing?" asked Pooh, climbing onto the writing table.
"The Tao of Pooh," I replied.
"The how of Pooh?" asked Pooh smudging one of the words I had just written.
The Tao of Pooh," I replied, poking his paw away with my pencil.
"It seems more like the ow! of Pooh," said Pooh, rubbing his paw.
"Well, it's not," I replied huffily.
"What's it about?" asked Pooh, leaning forward and smearing another word.
"It's about how to stay happy and calm under all circumstances!" I yelled.
"Have you read it?" asked Pooh.

Sorry for the picture-less posts. A bit busy to dig for photos but not too busy to procrastinate/blog-post.

South Korea

I went to Korea a few months ago and blogged a tiny bit about that. But I was struck with by a sudden memory after attempting (very briefly) to organize my books a bit. Since I hadn't planned on going to Korea, I didn't have an English guide book with me. There wasn't one in the shelves here either, (there are several Japan ones of course and one or two China ones) but none for Korea so I bought one at a bookstore here. English ones might have been available, but I figured with the proximity of the two countries and the frequency with which people from Japan frequent Korea (see previous entries on Korea), Japanese guidebooks would be more detailed anyway. More picture and photograph-filled with many more suggestions for souvenirs than one would find in typical American guidebooks. I digress though...

On the train ride to Gangnam one day to do some shopping (my trip pretty much consisted of eating and shopping) I was standing on the crowded train, trying to read my guidebook while keeping an eye out for my stop. As it was in Japanese (aforementioned), it takes quite a bit of time and effort for me to get through a page of the book and maybe I looked a bit lost because some Korean grandpas sitting opposite me asked, in Japanese if I need some help. Seeing my book, they assumed quite naturally that I was Japanese, and started asking me questions...where I was headed, if I was traveling alone, and had mini discussions amongst themselves as to which was the best stop for my needs. They appeared to be strangers but started conversing in Japanese to each other as they started one of those back-and-forths one sometimes hears in New York, where a small circle of city residents bicker over the best subway route to get to the MET from Times Square or some such. It was so friendly and surprisingly so for me, as I would have thought (cynically it appears now) that they would have been bitter about speaking this language but they were so nice and friendly in trying to help me. I think they thought I was Japanese the whole time but the Japanese mother and daughter pair behind me probably found me out as soon as I spoke more than three words. They shot me a few glances during the course of my conversation with the group of harabojis. It could have been because of the conversation itself, Japanese with Korean grandpas, rather than my Japanese but I think my accent must have contributed.

All of the lines that were crossing in this little international exchange really left an imprint on my memory. Throughout the whole trip most store people I met thought I was Japanese. Almost never Korean though...my friend suggested that it was because I dressed Japanese. Maybe. People do tend to think I am native here but that might have to do with where I am as much as general appearance.

Natsukashii Kyoto

I thought I'd do some retroactive posts about Kyoto since I didn't write much about my experience while I was actually there.

では、

This was taken in Kibune 貴船. In the hot summers of Kyoto (every Japanese person inevitably mentions the basin in which Kyoto is located, when you mention Kyoto and summer heat in the same breath.) wealthy people since olden times have found ways to escape the heat. Kibune is one such escape up in the mountains of northern Kyoto. During the summer, restaurants along this stream lay out planks across the small stream, crisscross lights overhead to create a unique alfresco experience. A highly recommended, if a bit pricey, experience.

Guess where I am going!

It was the inspiration behind the setting of Mononoke Hime!


There will be this,and this,
and I will be staying here: All photos courtesy of Kairakuen Minshuku.
楽しみです！

Monet in Japan

Monet is quite popular here, and impressionist artists in general I think. But I didn't realize how popular until I heard about the Monet Gardens. These are gardens that were created to imitate the ones that inspired some of Monet's most well-known paintings, like his water lilies series. Instead of being in Japanese and English, all of the signs and explanations were in Japanese and French. I went the same day I went to the Morning Market.

This is the Water Lily Garden, it was the right season for water lilies but unfortunately not the right time of day. By the time we got there the flowers had mostly closed up.

The effect was quite nice, and I imagine it is quite lovely when the water lilies are all open. I realized that such overflowing greenery is something I miss about home. Japanese gardens tend to be more trimmed down and spare. I suppose any Japanese gardening book could have told you that but I didn't realize it until these gardens. A bit slow on the uptake huh?

And some kittens up for adoption that we found at a rest stop...so so adorable. They were just left outside in a box with a sign. They were mewing and just begging that somebody pick them up. And I did, only to realize the signs instructed us not to do so unless we were taking one with us...I guess that explains why none of the elementary school kids I saw were playing with the kittehs. Oops.

Sunday Farmer's Market

One of my students offered to take me to the morning market in the neighboring prefecture. It's quite famous in these parts and is open pretty much the whole year round on Sundays. In the spring and summer it starts at 5am (they get an extra hour of sleep during the colder months). This is something that I have been wanting to do and I was really happy when they invited me. It also turned out to be a really good day to go, sunny and warm. The market is about 2km long so many pictures were taken.

We started out on the end near the castle.

The area is famous for knives and scissors so there were a few stores that extended their shops a bit and laid their wares out on the sidewalk for the day.

Many flower and plant vendors:


and of course, my favorite, food. Most of the vendors had fresh produce but there were also stalls selling homemade miso and pickles. Added to this were a few stores selling snacks meant to be eaten on the spot, like this one selling tempura.
The line at this stall wound around the side and looped around the back of the neighboring stall.

Mochi! Daifuku with different fillings like Buntan and Yuzu-flavored anko. Freshly made this morning.


Saba-zushi, also freshly made. I can personally attest that this was quite yummy with a strong sesame accent. But I still prefer the vinegary Kansai (Osaka?) battera.

Ke-gani (Hairy Crab). This is usually found in Hokkaido but was caught somewhere locally for reasons I couldn't quite make out from her explanation. Upon hearing that I was a foreigner, she said, "big crab" (in English) and let me pick it up so that I could pose with the local (?) seafood. I didn't see the picture my friend took but based on the way the muscles in my face started twitching and rearranging themselves, it was basically squeamish city girl holds large moving crustacean for the first time. The professional is holding crabby in this picture (she obligingly pulled out the stops for the international tourist)

Finally, the culinary highlight of my day. Tomatoes! Well, actually just tomato. This (that perfect red one in the middle of the tray) was the most delicious tomato I have ever had in my life. If the tomatoes mom tried to force on me as a kid tasted like this, I bet she wouldn't have had to force them on me. These were iced and thoroughly chilled for immediate consumption. I should also mention that they cost 100 yen for one large cherry-tomato-sized morsel or two small bites. If I wasn't with my student-friends I probably would have bought a few more but I was a bit embarrassed so I refrained. Then, a few yards later I encountered 200 yen tomatoes and wondered if it was possible that they tasted twice as good...

Breakfast

Here they apparently don't know that granola ought to be roasted with honey or some kind of syrup to make it hard and crunchy so every time I eat granola here I can really feel that I am eating grains. No wonder people here think cereal is like bird food.

Would like some Bear Naked granola and trader joe's yogurt please.

My childhood

A print from 20x200 by Kevin Cyr that is unfortunately, completely sold out.

Spring!

It's still light out and it's almost 5.



On a side note, I think I am slowly being converted to the eat local and eat seasonal bandwagon. Mixing my metaphors. Environment aside, it just tastes so much better (especially vegetables!) and it's also easy to do here. Japan is very big on seasons and seasonal foods. Right now we're all about the take-no-ko.

Slim Chips

I laughed when I read this: Slim Chips

"Slim Chips are good and they contain no calories. Instead of getting fat you can now eat paper with different flavors. It’s like eating tasty air. The Slim Chips are made out of edible paper and pure organic tastes."

Fiberlicious

Sunset in the city

My camera did something funky with the red rings here but it was a pretty spectacular sunset or I am just not in the city often enough to catch it.

Things I miss

Grass!

They don't take care of grass here like they do in sheep's meadow or Rockerfeller park. Yes, I know it takes a lot of water and time for upkeep, but what's a picnic without lush grass? Even rows of sakura trees can't save it.

Haru

Almost, not full-bloom yet

Craving

a Shake Shack Burger. Also wish I could eat any burger right now...combination of swollen right side and pain-killer induced nausea are making things tricky right now.

Focusing on that night when I ate a shroom burger wwith a regular hamburger patty. Odd combination of no appetite and empty stomach. Trying to focus...

Wind whistling

really really hard and my apartment building is also old. I just gave in and turned on the heat. So let's think instead of warmer days, like when I went to Hiroshima last September. Although I should say that it was 80 degrees during the day today and then it thunderstormed and rained, (or at least the weather forecast said it would and it looked wet when I stepped out from the mall, I used the rain as an excuse to take shelter there for two hours). It will be in the forties tomorrow.

Self-Esteem

These are some insoles that are quite easily found throughout popular shopping areas in Seoul. They are meant for guys who want to add a few more inches (since girls can wear heels I suppose) and are referred to as "self-esteem". Apparently a Korean comedian had done a skit on them where he referred to them as such and the name caught on. His catchphrase was something along the lines of, "So how much self-esteem do you have today?"I think.

One of the highlights of that day. Also this amazing snack called Tornado Potato (I might have made up that name), it is a spiral cut potato speared on a skewer and then deep fried and coated in yummy powder. Like potato chips on a skewer but thicker slices so potato chips with a bit more substance.

English v. Japanese in South Korea

In all of the major tourist places I went, Japanese was much more common than English. In many of the shops I went to, they assumed I was Korean first (I guess I don't wear the kind of doll-like makeup that seems to popular with Japanese girls) but when I indicated that I didn't understand, and said that I am from the U.S. they usually looked troubled. But then if I said I spoke Japanese, all of the shopkeepers spoke at least a few simple Japanese words and some were quite fluent. Particularly in Insadong and Myeong-dong (touristy art street and shopping area). One vendor in Insadong selling handmade candy even had a whole routine complete with small jokes and puns in Japanese demonstrating how the candy is made. They also played up to the Japanese omiyage custom...so many Japanese tourists in Korea!

The top image is from Changdeok-gong, of the Japanese tour I went on (it fit better with my schedule). There must have been a hundred people, and the Korean tours before and after had about ten people apiece.

Also, Snow White is pretty curvy in South Korea, her skirt's also shorter. This is an apple juice pouch.

First Apartment

Living alone has given me a new perspective on certain things, in this case, with regard to furniture. I saw this table and the first thing I thought was what a pain in the butt to clean. It looks cool, certainly different from typical coffee tables, and nice that it's made from scrap blocks of wood with little (in those images at least) in the way of screws or nails but imagine dusting that thing.

My new love: Kokuyo Dotliner

テープのり, think white-out tape dispenser (not liquid white-out) crossed with double-sided scotch tape. So simple, but such a great idea! You can now easily use double sided tape without getting the stickiness on your hands, making hands more, and tape less, sticky.

Japanese version of chunky versus creamy debate

I made peanut-butter jelly sandwiches for a bunch of my students a while back, since none of them had had one before. I added that in the U.S. people often have strong preferences for either chunky or creamy peanut butter. It is, as one student said, like tsubu-an and koshi-an, two types of anko (bean paste). Tsubu-an has bean skins so it is more textured while koshi-an doesn't so it's smoother. At bakeries here, it isn't uncommon to find two types of bean buns at a bakery, tsubu-an ones and koshi-an ones.

I also introduced students to root-beer (Village Vanguard) and microwave popcorn (the stove top kind is much more common, I got my microwave kind at a foreign foods specialty store).

1001 rules for my unborn son

he hasn't quite gotten to 1001 one yet (I think) but I have been reading a great deal of them (all in one sitting of course).

and I particularly liked this one:

310. Make time for your mom on your birthday. It's her special day too.

I never thought of that before.

It's cold.

The olive oil in my kitchen congealed. That's how cold it is in the kitchen. I have begun to appreciate the beauty of heated toilet seats and toto washlets.

By popular request...

(literally one request), I was asked to blog more.

I was up until 5am this morning, struck by an odd and overwhelming urge to marathon asian dramas (I was switching back and forth between two). I don't actually watch it all the way through, I fast forward and skip through bits that are too sickly sweet and ridiculous even for me. Then of course sometimes I miss parts crucial to the story (carton of milk on which the entire love story rests and becomes a recurring motif throughout all 100 hours of the story for example) and I have to go back and rewind. But some of those lines make me cringe too much to sit through so I watch in a back and forth pattern often watching a scene more than once in a span of three minutes as I try to locate some crucial phrase or milk carton. Since I am 100% sure nobody can stand such "technique", I am sure I continue watching by myself, under a blanket, next to my space heater in the near future.

On another note I made duck spaghetti last night!